Level 2 · Sound · project 16 of 19 · 20 min · ●●○○○
Vault Chime
Three slide switches in a line, a buzzer and a red LED hanging off the end — the chime only sings and glows when every single switch is closed.
new here? Start with First Light — one battery, one resistor, one LED. It teaches the loop, LED direction, and why the 220 Ω resistor matters.
What you need
- 1× 3×AA battery pack (4.5 V) L1
- 1× Solderless breadboard L1
- 7× Jumper wires L1
- 3× Slide switch three "keys" in a line — every one has to be flipped on L1
- 1× Active buzzer (3–5 V) the vault alarm; polarity matters, red leg toward the battery +
- 1× 220 Ω resistor LED safety resistor only — the buzzer self-limits L1
- 1× Red LED (5 mm) the "everyone agreed" indicator L1
you'll learn: Circuits are loops · Switches · Series & parallel · Ohm's law · LED polarity
Circuit map
The circuit you'll build, running on the Workbench right now.
simulating…
If it doesn't work
The boring ways this circuit actually breaks — check these first before you unwire everything.
- Nothing beeps or lights, even with all three slides on. One slide is wired across the two outer legs (the always-connected pair). Use middle + ONE outer leg on each slide. Then confirm the LED long leg faces + and the buzzer + leg faces the battery.
- LED lights with fewer than three slides closed. A slide is in parallel somewhere instead of in series. The chain must be + → slide 1 → slide 2 → slide 3 → merge rail. One jumper that bypasses a slide will cut it out of the vote.
- LED lights but the buzzer stays silent. Buzzer polarity. Flip it so the + leg (longer pin, or the + mark on the plastic) faces the battery side of the merge rail. Reverse polarity = silent.
- Buzzer beeps but the LED stays dark. LED polarity (long leg toward +) or the 220 Ω is in the wrong lane. The LED lane is 220 Ω + LED in series; the buzzer lane is just the buzzer.
- The 220 Ω feels warm. You've accidentally wired the 220 Ω in series with the buzzer. Current spikes to about 12 mA through 220 Ω (fine, actually) and the buzzer is starved below its make-tone threshold. Put the 220 Ω only in the LED lane.
What you're building
Handhold Chain grew up and found its voice. Three slide switches sit in a line, exactly like at Level 1, except now there's a buzzer plus a red LED hanging off the far end instead of just an LED. All three switches have to be on at the same moment: then the LED lights AND the buzzer beeps together. Open any one — even for a half-second — and both outputs die at once.
This is the vault-door pattern: the alarm only arms when every lock confirms it's in place.
The big idea: series-AND still works, no matter the output
Up at Level 1 you learned that switches in a line make an AND gate — every single one has to be closed before the loop can carry current. The Vault showed it with two slide switches. Handhold Chain did it with three. The lesson there was: a closed slide switch is basically a wire, so chain length doesn't dim or slow anything.
Now you're going to prove the same rule still holds when the output is a buzzer in parallel with the LED instead of just the LED alone. The buzzer is louder than any part you've used before — a real 30 mA current path, almost three times what the LED is sipping — so there's a tempting but wrong guess that "with more current flowing, the switches might get warm" or "the dim-chain effect might kick in". Neither happens. Series switches don't care how big the load behind them is, only whether every single one is closed.
- Any one switch open: loop broken, 0 mA. Buzzer silent, LED dark.
- All three closed: both lanes come alive. Buzzer and LED each do their own math, and the battery supplies the sum.
Do the math (all three closed)
With every slide switch closed, the merge rail reaches the full 4.5 V and both lanes conduct in parallel.
- Buzzer lane. The active buzzer looks like a ~150 Ω load (its datasheet rating of ~30 mA at 4.5 V implies 150 Ω). Ohm's law: I_buzz = 4.5 V ÷ 150 Ω = 30 mA. Full-volume beep.
- LED lane. Battery 4.5 V − red LED Vf 2.0 V = 2.5 V left for the 220 Ω. I_LED = 2.5 ÷ 220 ≈ 11 mA. First-Light brightness.
- Battery total: 30 + 11 = 41 mA. Same total as Arm & Ring, just with the arm pattern widened to three gates instead of one.
Notice what doesn't happen when you widen the chain from two switches to three: the current is unchanged. A closed slide switch has a few milliohms across its contacts, nothing next to the hundreds of ohms doing the real work. You could add seven more switches in series and the current would still be 41 mA — as long as every single one of them is closed.
Do the math (any switch open)
The series rule: one open link anywhere means no current anywhere. No matter which switch is open, the merge rail can't reach the battery's plus side. The buzzer sees 0 V across itself and the LED sees 0 V across its 220 Ω.
- I_buzz = 0 mA (buzzer silent)
- I_LED = 0 mA (LED dark)
- Battery total = 0 mA (nothing anywhere)
That's the point of a vault door: a partial agreement is no agreement. One guard's keypad can't open the room, even if the other two did their part.
Where "all-three-must-agree" shows up
- Bank vault alarms really do use three or four parallel keys that must all turn within a few seconds of each other. Our slide switches are the toy version — real vaults use mechanical tumblers and electrical interlocks in series, same AND gate.
- Missile silo launches in cold-war movies use two or three turnkeys at once. Not just drama — a real series-AND would stop one person acting alone.
- Chemical reactors and industrial presses interlock pressure switches, temperature switches, and operator "hold-to-run" buttons in series so a single sensor failure can't start the dangerous machine.
- Elevator doors chain every floor's "door closed" contact in series: the car won't move until all floors agree they're sealed.
Every one is this circuit at heart. The only differences are the number of switches in the chain and the size of the thing hanging off the end.
🧠 Your challenge
No single right answer. That's the point.
- Predict, then flip. Before you touch the breadboard, write down the LED current and buzzer current for all eight possible combinations of the three switches (open/closed, open/closed, open/closed — that's 2 × 2 × 2 = 8 cases). Then build it and check. (Spoiler: seven of the eight combinations give 0 mA on both. Only one — all three closed — gives the full 41 mA. That AND gate is unanimous.)
- Add a push button. Insert the tactile push button in series somewhere in the chain — say, between switch 3 and the merge rail. Now the alarm needs four things at once: all three slide switches on and somebody's finger on the button. What does this feel like in use? (More realistic: three "arm" keys always-on, one "trigger" button that someone actually presses. Real alarm panels work this way.)
- Mute just the buzzer. Add a second slide switch in series with the buzzer lane only (not the chain). Now the chain still arms both outputs together, but you can silence the buzzer without killing the LED. Draw it on paper before you build — which lane does the mute switch belong in? (The buzzer-only lane, between the merge rail and the buzzer's + leg. See Hidden Mute for the written-up version.)
- Swap the AND for an OR. Rewire the three slide switches so any one of them closed is enough to fire the alarm. That's three switches in parallel feeding the merge rail. You've seen the pattern in Panic Doorbell and Silent Alarm. Which layout — the AND or the OR — makes sense for a bank vault? Which for a fire alarm?
- Count the current. Measure the battery current with a multimeter at the + terminal, in all three states (none closed, one closed, all closed). Does your meter show the 41 mA you computed? (The LED lane's 11 mA plus the buzzer's 30 mA, with one caveat: real active buzzers often draw a bit less than their datasheet maximum, so 25–30 mA is normal.)
For grown-ups: safety notes
- Battery-safe throughout. 4.5 V can't shock you, and the worst case (all closed) draws 41 mA — well inside what fresh AAs provide for hours of on-time.
- The buzzer is loud at close range. When you first flip all three switches on, hold the breadboard away from your ears and warn anyone nearby. 30 mA at 3 cm is a startle-loud beep, especially for a nearby pet or sleeping sibling.
- Nothing in this circuit gets warm. 11 mA through the 220 Ω is 29 mW across its 250 mW rating — a tenth of what the resistor can shed. If the resistor feels warm, you've probably wired the buzzer in series with the 220 Ω by accident, which would spike the current far above safe. Pull a wire and re-check.
- Buzzer polarity matters: the + leg (usually marked by a longer pin or a tiny + on the plastic) must face the battery + rail. Reversed, the buzzer just sits silent even with every switch closed — a common "my chain works but no sound" symptom.
- Nothing in this circuit should ever touch mains power. The whole site is battery-only for good reason.
Checked against
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