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Never built a circuit? Perfect.
This page assumes you know nothing — not what a resistor is, not which way a battery goes. By the end you'll know what electronics actually is, exactly what to buy (about the price of a pizza night), and how to get your first circuit working tonight.
What electronics actually is
Electricity is a flow of charge — countless electrons drifting through a wire, like water through a pipe. Electronics is the craft of steering that flow to do something useful: light an LED, sound an alarm, spin a motor, sense the dark.
Three quantities describe every circuit you will ever build:
Voltage volts, V
The push. How hard the battery shoves electrons around the loop. Your 3×AA pack pushes with 4.5 volts.
Current amps, A
The flow. How much charge actually moves per second. LEDs want about 10 milliamps (0.010 A) — a trickle.
Resistance ohms, Ω
The pushback. How much a part fights the flow. Resistors add exactly the right amount of fight on purpose.
One equation ties them together — Ohm's law: current = voltage ÷ resistance, or I = V ÷ R. This is the tool you'll use in your first project. A red LED uses up about 2.0 V of the push, so a 220 Ω resistor sets the current to (4.5 − 2.0) V ÷ 220 Ω ≈ 11 mA — right in the LED's happy zone. Every project on this site shows its math like that, so you can see why the circuit works.
And one rule underneath it all: current only flows around a closed loop — out of the battery's + side, through your parts, back into the − side. No loop, no flow. Most "why isn't it working?" moments are a broken loop.
Try it right now — you don't own a single part yet
The Workbench is a real circuit simulator in your browser. Drop in a battery, a resistor, and an LED, and watch the current flow — or skip the resistor and watch the LED pop (in there, that's free). Breaking simulated circuits is the fastest way to learn what real ones need.
Got an iPhone or iPad? The free TinyOhms app is the same breadboard, with sound, and it works offline.
What to buy first
This is the complete Level 1 shopping list — about US $20–25 total: roughly a pizza night, wherever you live. Prices are rough local figures, not currency conversions — pick your region above if we guessed wrong. These are commodity parts sold worldwide: any electronics shop or large online retailer carries all of it, and hobby suppliers sell the same parts in friendlier packaging. Nothing here is brand-specific — a 220 Ω resistor is a 220 Ω resistor in every country.
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Solderless breadboard (half-size, 400 points)
$3–6Your building surface. Parts push in and pull out — no soldering, nothing permanent, every mistake is reversible.
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3×AA battery holder with wires + 3 AA batteries
$2–4Your power source: 4.5 volts, which is enough for everything in Level 1 and safe to touch with bare hands.
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Jumper wire pack (male-to-male)
$3–5The connections between parts. Get a mixed pack of 40+ — you will always want one more wire.
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LED assortment (5 mm, red / yellow / green)
$3–5Your first outputs. The longer leg is the + side. Buy a multipack of 20+; you will burn out a couple while learning, and that is fine.
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Resistor assortment (must include 220 Ω, 1 kΩ, 10 kΩ)
$3–6The parts that keep LEDs alive. Cheapest way is an assortment box of a few hundred — resistors cost about a cent each.
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Slide switches and push buttons (a few of each)
$2–4Your first inputs: a switch that stays on, and a button that is only on while pressed.
Buying tip: assortment packs beat exact quantities. Parts this small are cheapest in bulk, and spares turn "I broke it" from a show-stopper into a shrug. Skip anything sold as a branded "beginner kit" with parts you can't name — you now know exactly what you need.
The safety rules (all four of them)
- Battery packs only. Never wall power. Everything on this site runs on 4.5–9 V from batteries, which can't shock you. Mains electricity (the wall socket) can kill — it has no place on your bench, ever, and no TinyOhms project will ever ask for it.
- Don't short the battery. A wire straight from + to − with nothing in between makes the maximum possible current. The wire and batteries get hot fast. If something warms up, disconnect first, ask why second.
- LEDs always get a resistor. An LED barely resists current at all, so without a resistor it takes far too much and burns out — you did the math above.
- Keep loose batteries and small parts away from little kids and pets. Especially coin cells — swallowed ones are a medical emergency.
Your first hour
- Play in the Workbench — build the battery → switch → resistor → LED loop on screen and flip it on.
- Build First Light for real — the same loop on your breadboard, with the full math and what-if challenges.
- Break it on purpose — turn the LED around, pull a wire, swap the resistor. Predict what will happen before you look.
- Pick the next project — every one opens in the Workbench first, so you can try it before you wire it.
From there, the ladder takes over: ten levels, each adding a few parts to the same box — sound, sensors, motors, chips, code, and eventually Wi-Fi. Nothing you buy today ever gets retired.