Level 1 · Light · project 9 of 11 · 15 min · ●●○○○

Signal Light

A slide switch and a push button in parallel — the slide is the steady beacon, the button is the extra flash. Either lights the lamp.

new here? Start with First Light — one battery, one resistor, one LED. It teaches the loop, LED direction, and why the 220 Ω resistor matters.

What you need

you'll learn: Circuits are loops · Switches · Series & parallel · LED polarity

Circuit map

The circuit you'll build, running on the Workbench right now.

simulating…

If it doesn't work

The boring ways this circuit actually breaks — check these first before you unwire everything.

  • LED never lights. Flip the LED (long leg toward +), then check the 220 Ω is in the lane, then the battery pack switch.
  • Slide alone doesn't hold the light on. The slide and button must be in parallel — either one alone lights the lamp. Check the slide's middle + one outer leg wiring.
  • Only the button works. Slide switch middle + one outer leg. The other outer leg is disconnected.
  • Only the slide works. Push buttons bridge DIAGONALLY. Move one button wire to the opposite corner.
  • Both on, but the LED flickers. Loose jumper. Push each leg all the way in until you feel the clip grab.

What you're building

A tail light with two modes on one lamp. A slide switch flipped on holds the red LED steady — a beacon anyone can see from behind. A push button on top of that fires the same lamp only while you're holding it — a momentary flash to grab a driver's attention when you really need it.

Two-Door Signal proved that two slide switches in parallel make an OR gate: either one alone lights the lamp. This project builds the same OR gate with two different kinds of switch: a persistent one that stays where you left it, and a momentary one that only counts while your finger is down. Same wiring, same math — but the two behaviours you get out are wildly different.

The big idea: OR of a slide and a button

Two switches wired side by side — both connecting the same two spots — give the loop two ways to close. Electricity is lazy: it takes any available path. So the LED lights as long as at least one switch is closed.

  • Slide switch closed, button up → path exists (through the slide) → LED steady on.
  • Slide switch open, button pressed → path exists (through the button) → LED on while held.
  • Both closed → two paths at once → LED on, same brightness.
  • Both open → no path anywhere → LED off.

The mix of switch types is the fun part. The slide decides your default state: on if you flipped it on, off if you flipped it off. The button overrides that default upward — it can turn a dark lamp momentarily on, but it can never turn a lit lamp off. In logic terms it is still A OR B, but you're using the two inputs for two very different jobs.

Do the math

When at least one switch is closed, the loop is exactly First Light — one battery, one resistor, one LED. Extra closed switches in parallel don't slow it down; they just add a second wire from the plus rail to the same merge point.

  • Battery push: 4.5 V
  • Red LED eats: 2.0 V
  • Voltage left for the resistor: 4.5 − 2.0 = 2.5 V
  • Through 220 Ω: I = 2.5 ÷ 220 ≈ 0.0114 A = 11 mA

Same 11 mA whether the slide is on, the button is pressed, or both. A closed switch — slide or button — is basically a short piece of metal (a few milliohms). Whether one such piece of metal delivers the current or two do in parallel, the LED still sees the same 4.5 V push through the same 220 Ω speed bump.

That's why the "extra flash" doesn't look any brighter than the steady beacon: the resistor already sets the current, and the second closed path can't push it higher.

Build it

  1. Power rails: battery red (+) to a top row, battery black (−) to a bottom row.
  2. Fork the plus rail into two branches: one jumper from the + rail to the slide switch's common leg, another jumper from the + rail to one leg of the push button (across the centre groove — same trick as Morse Code Messenger).
  3. Merge the outputs: the slide switch's outer leg and the push button's diagonal leg both land on the same row — the "someone closed a switch" merge row.
  4. The LED lane: merge row → 220 Ω → LED long leg → LED short leg → rail.
  5. Slide the slide switch on: steady red. Slide it off, press the button: red only while you press. Slide on AND press the button: steady red, exactly as bright as before.

Deploy the beacon

Once it works on the breadboard, you can mount this on the back of a bike helmet, a backpack, or your handlebars:

  • The slide switch is your on/off for a whole night ride — flip it on at sundown, off when you get home. A fresh set of AAs will keep the LED steady for ~110 hours at 11 mA (a typical 2500 mAh AA capacity ÷ 11 mA ≈ 227 h, halved for real-world losses and low-voltage cutoff — several long night rides on one set).
  • The push button sits under your thumb on the handlebars. When a car pulls up too close from behind, tap it three or four times fast. A steady red is easy to ignore; a red that suddenly starts flashing is not. Human eyes are wired to notice motion, not brightness — that's why every emergency vehicle flashes.

Where OR-of-mixed-switches shows up in the real world

  • Car headlights + high-beam flash: a stalk that pulls back briefly always fires the high beams, even if your main headlight switch is off. Momentary override on top of a persistent setting.
  • Doorbells + a "hold to buzz" backdoor test button: the outside button rings normally; a hidden inside button lets you test the bell without going outside.
  • Room lights + a wall-plate momentary "party mode" that adds the disco light: slide sets the base state, momentary adds a temporary layer.

Once you notice this pattern, you'll find it everywhere. Any time a system has a default state you can flip and an override you can hold, you're looking at OR-of-different-switches.

🧠 Your challenge

No single right answer. That's the point.

  • Predict, then measure. Fill in the truth table for slide (S) and button (B): (S=off, B=up), (S=off, B=pressed), (S=on, B=up), (S=on, B=pressed). Which two rows give the same LED behaviour, and which two rows are unique? (Hint: OR only cares about "at least one".)
  • Swap the roles. Wire the slide in one lane and the button in the other, but flip the story: the slide is a "silent mode" (open = normal, closed = force-on override), and the button is the "call for help" trigger. The wiring stays exactly the same — only your labels change. Which real-world device would you build this way?
  • Steady green + momentary red. Add a green LED (with its own 220 Ω) fed only by the slide switch, and put the red LED in the button's lane by itself. Now the two switches control two different lamps — that's not OR at all, that's back to Do Not Disturb Sign's independent lanes. Which real-world signals split their two indicators this way? (Traffic crossings, aircraft cockpits, anything where "steady" means one thing and "flashing" means another.)
  • Three-input OR. Put the second slide switch (from The Vault or Two-Door Signal) as a third parallel path. Now any of the three lights the lamp: two persistent modes plus a momentary tap. When would you want two different persistent modes? (Hint: think about a headlamp with "low", "high", and "flash".)
  • What OR of the inputs looks like at Level 6. The wiring in front of you is a physical OR gate. A chip called the 74HC32 does the same thing — two inputs in, one output that's high when either input is. Level 6 will hand you that chip. You already understand what it does.

For grown-ups: safety notes

  • Battery-safe throughout. At 11 mA the whole circuit sips well under a hundredth of an amp; fresh AAs run this for many nights of steady on-time, or thousands of button taps.
  • The LED can survive a lot of button-mashing — every press connects and disconnects a healthy 11 mA loop, well inside the LED's 20 mA limit. Tap it as many times as you like.
  • Bike-mounting note: if you actually strap this to a bike, tape the battery pack somewhere it won't rattle loose and hide the breadboard under a plastic bag against light rain. Never ride with a breadboard flapping in the wind at speed — the jumpers pop out with a good bump.
  • If the LED lights when no switch is closed, one of the switches is wired between two legs that are always connected inside. Rotate that switch (slide or button) 90° on the breadboard and try again. The button's diagonal legs are the switched pair; the same-side legs are always joined.
  • If the LED never lights even with both switches on, walk the loop with your finger from + rail through one switch, across the merge row, through the resistor, through the LED long leg, out the short leg, back to rail. Whichever step your finger can't trace, that's the break.
  • Don't use this as your only rear light on public roads. A single 5 mm red LED is a fun beacon but well below the brightness of a real bike tail light. Ride with a proper light as well, and use this to learn the parts and the wiring.

Checked against

Keep building