Level 1 · Light · project 10 of 11 · 20 min · ●●○○○
Escape Hatch
The Vault with a big red emergency button wired around both locks — turn BOTH keys, or hit the button, and the light comes on.
new here? Start with First Light — one battery, one resistor, one LED. It teaches the loop, LED direction, and why the 220 Ω resistor matters.
What you need
- 1× 3×AA battery pack (4.5 V)
- 1× Solderless breadboard
- 6× Jumper wires
- 2× Slide switch the two vault locks — series-AND, both must be closed for the main path
- 1× Push button (tactile) the emergency button — bridges around BOTH slides, so pressing it lights the LED no matter what the locks say
- 1× Red LED (5 mm) the "open" light
- 1× 220 Ω resistor
you'll learn: Circuits are loops · Switches · Series & parallel · Ohm's law · LED polarity
Circuit map
The circuit you'll build, running on the Workbench right now.
simulating…
If it doesn't work
The boring ways this circuit actually breaks — check these first before you unwire everything.
- LED lights only when both slides are on. That AND path is working. The emergency button should bridge AROUND both slides — a jumper straight from + to the LED lane, closed only when the button is pressed.
- Button lights the LED but the slides do nothing. The AND path is broken. Trace: + → slide A → slide B → 220 Ω → LED → −. Both slides in series in the main path.
- LED never lights. Flip the LED (long leg toward +), then check the 220 Ω is in the lane, then the battery pack switch.
- Both slides on, button pressed, still nothing. Battery pack switch, then both battery leads to the rails, then LED direction.
- Button feels like it does nothing. Push buttons bridge diagonally, not across. Move one wire to the opposite corner.
What you're building
The Vault had two locks in a line and no way past them. This time the same lock is still there — slide A and slide B, both must be closed for the LED to light — but now there's a red emergency button wired around the whole pair. Press it and the LED lights the instant, no matter which locks are open.
Real fire doors work exactly like this. Two keyed deadbolts hold them shut in normal use, and a big push-bar bypasses both when someone slaps it on the way out. You're building the electrical version.
The trick this project is really teaching is mixing AND with OR in one circuit. That's a compound logic gate — the first one you own that does more than one Boolean thing at once.
The big idea: AND-then-OR
The Vault was pure AND: slide A closed AND slide B closed → LED lit. Everything else → dark.
Two-Door Signal was pure OR: front switch OR back switch → LED lit. Only both open → dark.
Escape Hatch is (A AND B) OR C. It reads as one sentence: "both locks turned, or the emergency button pressed." That "or" is the key move: adding a parallel path around the two series switches means the loop can complete two different ways. Either way lands on the same 220 Ω + LED lane.
Truth table (0 = open, 1 = closed/pressed; last column = LED):
| Slide A | Slide B | Button | LED |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | 0 | 0 | 🌑 dark |
| 1 | 0 | 0 | 🌑 dark |
| 0 | 1 | 0 | 🌑 dark |
| 1 | 1 | 0 | 🔴 lit |
| 0 | 0 | 1 | 🔴 lit |
| 1 | 0 | 1 | 🔴 lit |
| 0 | 1 | 1 | 🔴 lit |
| 1 | 1 | 1 | 🔴 lit |
Half the rows are dark, half are lit. The dark ones all share one feature: button up, and at least one slide open. The moment the button goes down, or both slides close, the loop finds a way through.
Do the math (both slides closed, button up — normal open)
This is just First Light with two closed switches in the way. Closed switches carry current for free — they don't slow it down. Loop:
- Battery push: 4.5 V
- LED forward drop: 2.0 V
- Voltage left for the 220 Ω: 4.5 − 2.0 = 2.5 V
- Current: I = V ÷ R = 2.5 ÷ 220 ≈ 0.011 A = 11 mA
Same 11 mA as the very first project you built. Adding switches to a series loop never changes the current, only whether the current is allowed to happen at all.
Do the math (both slides open, button pressed — emergency bypass)
The main path is now broken twice over, but the emergency button lays a whole new wire around it. That wire replaces slide A + slide B with one close-to-zero-Ohm bridge, and everything downstream (220 Ω, LED) sees the same 4.5 V. Same math:
- Voltage left for the 220 Ω: 2.5 V
- Current: 11 mA
The current doesn't know or care whether it took the two-slide path or the emergency-button path — the two paths end at the same node.
Do the math (both slides open AND button up — everything off)
Both parallel paths are broken. No loop → 0 mA. LED dark. This is where the vault sits when nobody is around.
What if BOTH paths are on at once?
Say all three switches are closed. Then two paths (slides-in-series and button-bypass) both connect the same two nodes — the same places on the +rail and just before the 220 Ω. Parallel identical zero-resistance paths still add up to zero-ish resistance. The current finds them equally happy. Nothing lights any brighter; the LED still runs at its usual 11 mA. Adding a parallel wire around an already-closed loop is a no-op — the current can only be limited once by the same 220 Ω downstream.
Where "AND with an emergency OR" shows up
- Fire-escape doors with two deadbolts and a push-bar bypass.
- Panic strips on gym or theatre exits — the door has all its regular latches, plus a horizontal bar that pushes them all open at once.
- Elevator door override keys — the elevator's normal safety interlocks must all agree before it moves, and a firefighter's key bypasses all of them.
- Two-key nuclear launch panels with a "presidential authorization button" — a plot device, but built from the same AND-OR pattern.
Any time a system has strict day-to-day rules and a controlled way to bypass them, this circuit is what's under the hood.
🧠 Your challenge
No single right answer. That's the point.
- Two exits, one alarm. Add your second push-button in parallel with the first (like the Panic Doorbell). Now there are two emergency buttons, both bypassing the locks. What's the LED current when both emergency buttons are pressed at the same time? (Still 11 mA — parallel bypass paths don't add up to more current; the 220 Ω sets the limit.)
- A second LED lane. Add a green LED with its own 220 Ω resistor directly across the battery, before the locks — no switches in its way. Now the green LED tells you the battery is connected, and the red one still reports the lock state. Which project already taught you this move? (Do Not Disturb Sign — lane independence.)
- Fail-secure vs fail-open. Right now the LED is dark when the vault is locked and lit when it's open, so "no power" looks the same as "locked". Sketch a version where dark = actually locked and removing the battery gives a different visible answer. What's the smallest change to the parts you already own? (Hint: think about how many LEDs would let you say both "power OK" and "locked".)
- Ternary-key vault. Rewire the emergency button so it doesn't bypass the slides — instead put it in series with them, making three switches all in a line. What real-world thing needs three simultaneous confirmations? (You'll recognise the pattern from Handhold Chain.)
For grown-ups: safety notes
- Battery-safe everywhere. The most current the LED lane can ever pull is ~11 mA, whether via the locks or via the emergency button.
- The emergency button is a momentary switch — it only closes while you hold it down. That's deliberate: fire doors don't want a stuck bypass staying on after the emergency has passed.
- If the LED lights when only one slide is closed and the button is up, one of the slides is probably wired between two pins that are always connected inside. Slide switches close between adjacent pins, not the third one. Rotate the switch 90° on the breadboard.
- If the LED never lights even with both slides on and no button pressed, first check the LED direction (long leg toward +), then check that the 220 Ω is actually 220 Ω (red-red-brown, not brown-black-red).
- The emergency bypass shorts around the two locks, not around the battery or the LED, so pressing it during any state is safe — the 220 Ω is always in the loop.
Checked against
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