Level 4 · Motion · project 5 of 8 · 25 min · ●●●○○

Party Spinner

One button, three mouths: a spinning motor, a red LED, and a buzzer all fire together. One transistor drives them all.

new here? Start with First Light — one battery, one resistor, one LED. It teaches the loop, LED direction, and why the 220 Ω resistor matters.

What you need

you'll learn: Circuits are loops · Switches · Series & parallel · Transistor switching · Ohm's law · LED polarity

Circuit map

The circuit you'll build, running on the Workbench right now — shown with the switch closed.

simulating…

If it doesn't work

The boring ways this circuit actually breaks — check these first before you unwire everything.

  • Motor and buzzer fire, LED stays dark. LED is backwards. Long leg (anode) toward the + rail via the 220 Ω; short leg (cathode) toward the collector. Flip it.
  • Motor and LED fire, buzzer stays silent. Active buzzer is polarity-sensitive. Check the sticker: + toward battery +, − toward collector. Flip and retry.
  • LED and buzzer fire, motor sits still. Motor wires loose in their holes (they're friction-fit; give them a wiggle). Also make sure the flyback diode is ACROSS the motor with banded end toward +.
  • Nothing fires when the button is pressed. 2N2222 pin order: flat face toward you, E-B-C left-to-right. Then confirm 1 kΩ is in the base lane, not in the collector lane.
  • Everything fires without pressing the button. A stray wire is bridging the + rail to the base row. Trace the trigger lane: + → button → 1 kΩ → base. If + reaches the base without the button between, everything runs constantly.
  • Diode gets hot within seconds. Diode wired backwards — banded end must face battery +. Disconnect and flip it.
  • Fan spins weak, LED dim, buzzer quiet — all together. AA cells sagging under the ~185 mA total. Fresh alkalines; skip zinc-carbon.

What you're building

Press one button. A motor spins, a red LED lights, a buzzer beeps — all at once, all driven from the same transistor. Let go and everything stops together, quiet and dark.

Tape a paper arrow to the motor shaft and you've got a spinning game piece: who does the arrow point to? Board games, spinning question wheels, birthday-cake favours — all three cues (visual, audible, mechanical) fire together, powered by one AA pack.

The point of this project isn't the game. It's the wiring pattern: one brain, many mouths, run to the limit. Dusk Chorus did two mouths (LED + buzzer) at Level 3. Here you add a motor as a third mouth, and the transistor drives all three without breaking a sweat.

The multi-mouth pattern

The transistor's collector is a single "on/off" node that all your output lanes hang off of, each in its own parallel branch between + and the collector:

  • Motor lane: motor (30 Ω) + flyback diode across it.
  • LED lane: 220 Ω safety resistor + red LED.
  • Buzzer lane: the active buzzer (its own 150 Ω resistance).

Each branch is independent — each one solves its own Ohm's-law problem and pulls its own current. The transistor's job is to add them all up and pass the sum through its collector.

Do the current math

Button pressed. Solve each mouth separately:

  • Motor lane: (4.5 − V_CE(sat)) ÷ 30 Ω = (4.5 − 0.2) ÷ 30 = ≈ 143 mA.
  • LED lane: V_LED ≈ 2.0 V (red), V_CE(sat) ≈ 0.2 V, so the 220 Ω resistor sees 4.5 − 2.0 − 0.2 = 2.3 V. I_LED = 2.3 ÷ 220 ≈ 10.5 mA. Same "First Light" brightness.
  • Buzzer lane: the active buzzer looks like 150 Ω at 4.5 V. (4.5 − 0.2) ÷ 150 = ≈ 29 mA. Loud enough to hear from the next room.

Total collector current when the button is down:

I_C = 143 + 10.5 + 29 ≈ 183 mA.

Can the transistor handle it? Two ceilings to check:

  1. The 2N2222's absolute continuous rating: 600 mA. We're at 183 mA — under a third. ✓
  2. The base's saturation drive. With a 1 kΩ base resistor, I_base = (4.5 − 0.7) ÷ 1 kΩ = 3.8 mA. β × I_base = 200 × 3.8 = 760 mA available. We need 183 mA. 760 ÷ 183 = 4.2× headroom — deep saturation. ✓

The transistor is comfortable. It runs cool: V_CE(sat) × I_C = 0.2 × 0.183 = 37 mW. Warm to the touch after a minute; nowhere near hot.

Button released. I_base = 0. Transistor snaps off. All three mouths go quiet at once. The motor's collapsing coil still tries to push current — the flyback diode catches that pulse just like in First Spin, so the transistor never sees the spike.

Why the mouths don't fight each other

A common early instinct: "if I add a second mouth, won't the first one get dimmer?" Not here. Each parallel branch has its own path from + to collector, and each solves its own Ohm's-law equation independently. The LED lane pulls its 10.5 mA because the LED's forward drop and the 220 Ω resistor decide it. The motor pulls its 143 mA because its 30 Ω coil decides it. Adding the buzzer doesn't rob current from either — it just adds its share to the total the collector has to pass.

The one thing that would rob current is the transistor falling out of saturation — if you ask it for more than β × I_base and V_CE starts rising, every lane would droop together. But we have 4× headroom, so that won't happen.

This "parallel branches are independent" idea is what makes the transistor's "one brain, many mouths" trick scale. You can add a fourth or fifth lane the same way, as long as the total stays under the transistor's ceiling and the base drive is strong enough to saturate.

Build it

  1. Power rails: battery + to a top row, battery to a bottom row.
  2. Trigger lane: battery +push button1 kΩ → transistor Base.
  3. The transistor: flat face toward you, legs are Emitter (left), Base (middle), Collector (right). E rail, B ← the 1 kΩ from the button lane, C into a fresh row A (the "collector node").
  4. Motor lane: motor between the + rail and row A. Flyback diode across the motor: cathode (banded end) in the + rail row, anode in row A.
  5. LED lane: 220 Ω from the + rail to a new row L; red LED from row L (long leg / anode) to row A (short leg / cathode toward the collector).
  6. Buzzer lane: active buzzer from the + rail to row A. Watch its + / stickers — the active buzzer only works one way around, unlike the motor.
  7. Press the button. Three things happen at once: buzz, flash, spin. Let go: three things stop at once.

If any one mouth stays dark/silent/still while the other two fire, the wiring bug is in that lane, and only that lane — this is a big win over series-connected outputs, where one broken link kills everything.

What "one brain, many mouths" opens up

You've now seen the full menu of L1–L4 output types (LED, buzzer, motor) all fired at once. Everything at L5+ is a variation on this same pattern:

  • Level 5: replace the motor with a servo. The button now triggers a specific angle — a game spinner with a predictable landing.
  • Level 6: the button becomes a 555 timer — a spinner that fires on a schedule, no press required.
  • Level 7: the trigger becomes an Arduino pin. Now the spinner spins on a countdown, or spins random durations, or logs every spin.

The mouths downstream don't change. Only the brain upstream does.

🧠 Your challenge

No single right answer. That's the point.

  • Drop the buzzer, hear the difference. Unplug the buzzer's two legs. Now only the motor and LED fire. Does the LED look brighter? (No — lanes are independent. The LED is at exactly the same 10.5 mA it was before. What changes is the total battery current: 183 → 154 mA.)
  • Add a fourth mouth. Wire a second LED lane (220 Ω + green LED) in parallel with the red. What's the total collector current now, and is the transistor still saturated? (183 + ~11 = ~194 mA. Base drive supports 760 mA. Yes, still deep in saturation.)
  • Cheat the buzzer. Move the buzzer to fire even when the button is up — i.e., wire it directly from + to − without going through the collector. Predict what happens. (The buzzer will sound constantly, whether or not the button is pressed. That's the point of hanging outputs off the collector: they can be gated by the transistor. Move it back.)
  • What if the buzzer wants 200 mA? Some "louder" 5 V active buzzers pull much more. Redo the math with a 20 Ω buzzer instead of 150 Ω. Does the transistor still saturate? (20 Ω → 4.3/20 = 215 mA buzzer. Total: 143 + 10.5 + 215 = 368 mA. Under the 600 mA ceiling, and the 760 mA base drive still saturates. But now battery current is 372 mA, and AA cells will sag under that — you'd need a bigger pack.)
  • Predict lane failures. If the LED is wired backwards, does the motor still spin? Does the buzzer still beep? (Both — yes. A reversed LED is an open circuit; it just doesn't light. The other two lanes don't know.)
  • The party finale. Add a slide switch in the trigger lane between the + rail and the push button. Now the slide is a master arm/disarm; the push button is the "fire" trigger. That's the exact wiring inside every real alarm system.

For grown-ups: safety notes

  • Battery-safe throughout — 4.5 V and up to ~185 mA won't hurt anyone. The transistor dissipates ~37 mW when saturated: warm after a minute, never hot.
  • Diode polarity matters most. Cathode (banded end) toward battery +. Reversed, it shorts the battery through itself as soon as the transistor turns on. Heat rises fast; disconnect and flip.
  • Transistor pin order. Flat face toward you, legs left-to-right are Emitter, Base, Collector. Backwards is the #1 first-try mistake — the transistor will run hot with no motor or LED activity.
  • Active buzzer polarity. The active buzzer has a + and side (usually a red-dot or a + sticker on top). Wired backwards, most active buzzers are silent but harmless; a few draw a small current and get slightly warm. Check the sticker.
  • LED polarity. Long leg (anode) toward the + rail via the 220 Ω; short leg (cathode) toward the collector. Backwards LEDs don't light and don't get hot — just no glow.
  • Fingers, hair, and paper blades. The motor spins around 6,000 RPM. Tie hair back; keep loose sleeves clear of the shaft; use a small, well-centred paper arrow, not one big enough to wobble.
  • Total AA drain: ~185 mA when firing. Fresh alkalines handle that for hours. Old cells sag under it and you'll get weak spin and quiet beeps — swap them, don't push through.
  • Never wire this to mains. Every part is 4.5 V-safe.

Checked against

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